Martin Margiela an Invisible Man

In the past the past 20 years, Martin Margiela has steadfastly refused to have anything to do with the media occurred. This act led to a lasting and enormous repercussions, especially in today's all that can be under the general trend of the exposure - something the fashion world baguazhang endless, people have become all too common, almost numb - Martin Margiela's position appears to personal, calm and professional.

"New York Times" or even of T Magazine in its special issue this year's spring fashion that, Margiela this elusive character designer for other arbitrary "reference" design, he opened the door. Over the years, even if not Margiela's fans, as long as you are a fashion enthusiasts, mostly on how many people can see that with the introduction of the shadow of Martin Margiela designs. Margiela why I do not simply a grand scale of his designs into the commercial model? Why he has been given to others from his endless creativity of the benefit-ri? Margiela look in the 1990s as a women's design director of Hermes when it works, you will find he is fully capable of seizing the hearts of any audience. Well, the only possible explanation is that Martin Margiela according to its own will, choose not to make any aesthetic compromise - for which he should get applause.

Martin Margiela-style success

Martin Margiela fashion arena in the initial stage should be traced back to the late 1980s, when the potential of the fashion designer has just come to light. In terms of aesthetic or conceptual, of his choice in making the recovery of profit, pay attention to speculation runs completely counter to the spirit of the times. If you want to find a reason to explain Margiela for all of this resistance, it may be due to him as a designer has personally witnessed the excessive speculation is how to direct the destruction of a designer. In creating their own brands before him first as assistant to do Jean Paul Gaultier, Gianfranco Ferre after as a result of Christian Dior from retirement, he had wished to become his successor, but Dior's decision-makers do not like him it seems like a vagrant, not so with advanced sense of design style. In fact, as early as in that long before, in Margiela's work behind the scenes should have learned that the charismatic Gaultier on the influence of his career - if not more than a fashion designed by him, his personality on the attractiveness of the media and there is absolutely is the same with fashion. Martin Margiela does not want such a success.

Instead, the designers refuse to use the big-name models. He selected his own male and female friends for him show During that period, he had not been busy all the models turned up nothing. He is not the ordinary meaning of the extended platform to do releases, but Parisians of residential choice, a double-decker bus roof and abandoned the train compartments. Similarly, other brands wish to paste the name in the most conspicuous position, Margiela brand seemed deliberately to hide. Martin Margiela is a piece of the sign blank rectangle, not nailed on clothes. For some not very clever people, the exposed surface, in clothes that big white four-pin may appear only when the factory owners in the production of a fault. Even today, Margiela's many products labeled only a figure, and there are no similar names like loud logo.
They did not trademark the name also indicates, Margiela never works the core of self-creators. Any hope that he get in touch with the people who will be instructed and asked him the question directly to the fashion house, where there will be special collection and to answer questions. Of course, the fault in this regard also occur from time to time, you should not expect answer.

Now the fashion industry taking into account the obvious tendency of self-centeredness - the fashion designer and the wearer's personality to occupy an important position unprecedented - Martin Margiela such excessive democratization is very worthy of attention. Staff uniforms without modification of like a white coat - a long paragraph is devoted to the French fashion industry to the models in the fitting room wearing Gap clothing, the short section is scheduled for Paris, those at the high uniform studio tailor their work clothes, both immediately convey the wearer as a team identity.

Maison Martin Margiela 20-year retrospective on the fashion

People behind the clothes

Despite - or rather simply that it is because-Margiela refused to accept the rules of the game, and his brand of intellectuals today, was generally respected. Those who know little of fashion may be no way to recognize Martin Margiela's clothes, or is its wearer, but true, however, the wearer can easily find themselves similar. From Nicolas Ghesquiere to AlexanderMcQueen, almost every fashion industry wear Martin Margiela.

The designers have always due to a monk-like attitude to avoid any his personal problems, as well as the media for him to resist the establishment of any classification, people know of him is far from adequate. Of course, the following facts or credible: He was born in Belgium in 1959 Lindberg, 18-year-old went to Antwerp at the Royal College of Art to study fashion design and graduated in 1979. From 1984 to 1987, he as a design assistant in the previous mentioned Gaultier's work. In 1989, he created their own brand names.

Since then, Margiela started to write their own name under the new design elements - well-known type Margiela shoulder line, the province reversed the chest and joints, as if throwing paint on the designs, the lap did not fold, do not ride sector Apparel with the invention of a similar ... ... the list goes on. Ten years later, the same designer logo design was used on the men's. Taking into account him one of the pioneers consistent position that this confusion of gender is actually not what. He often looks a bit feminine design of men's, or is the traditional men's tailoring used on Women.

At first glance looks, Martin Margiela's design feels somewhat haphazardly put together, in fact they are based on deep humane sense of humor, strength and rich combination. There is a designer remove any vulgar sense of strength - at this point he only Yves Saint Laurent. If you feel that this contact is not appropriate, it is how to think about SaintLaurent posterior lobe in the 20th century for women to build up a whole mouth of the closet it practical-Margiela for men made with the same contribution. MartinMargiela a man dressed from head to toe will give people who are good at trade-offs, rather than blindly following blindly the brand impression. This at least in part attributed to the designer's aesthetic and that no short-sighted. He would not resist for a creative re-use. Amazing value him with deep respect - color dyeing, recycling, scrap cutting, bleaching ... ... As a result of this process for each of the attention and careful consideration, any of a department store or unknown there is no logo Martin Margiela shop people - even if he was behind these people know nothing about clothing, but also are likely to be tried after a coat is pleased to be bought, only because he has this love-fitting clothes.

In the past the past 20 years, MartinMargiela has continued to make many of the most beautiful and moving works, as well as wealth to the intelligence of an exemplary design. Works have been carried out on the full respect of the re-creation, from denim to foil any fabric, all full of love for hand-sewing, an old fork will be transformed into a beautiful jewelry - both his work is highly creative without missing a talent for art. In his hands, the classic long trench coat and leather jacket will glow with a deep feeling of belonging to the connotation of antique clothing.

Martin Margiela manikin model using gloves, body wrapped in cloth and other discarded materials made of Fashion

An Interview with Martin Margiela

Stealth in the creative Martin Margiela ushered in after the 20th anniversary of the brand, as well as the line of men's 10 anniversary. In the past 20 years, the outside world, no one knows his real face. According to established practice, the following questions were sent to his fashion house, and are collectively referred to or the third person to answer. But we dare say, this time to answer, indeed I was Martin Margiela.

B = "Waitan Huabao" M = Martin Margiela

Why Stealth?

B: first congratulations, Maison MartinMargiela ushered in the 20th anniversary of birthday.

M: We feel proud, very proud. In the past 20 years, both "slow" stage that there are "fast" stage. We choose the direction of sometimes hinder us, and sometimes pushing us forward. But this is also to say nothing of! Can also be said that our brand is only just registered it.

B: you refused to accept media interviews and take photographs. Now consider the so-called "star designer" has been quite common, you Such a practice is a bit incredible. Why do you do this?

M: Forever the creative should be placed before me the reality. Our brand at the international level, be respected, which gives us very happy. However, we always do not forget the success of the negative, as long as it exists, we will hold on the 1st of it with respect.

B: from the early days, you will cover the model's face so that they show you will be wrapped their heads, or in a model can only see part of the neck below the box to do releases. Is it related to you personally that the specter of a hermit-like style of relating?

M: In fact, should be much simpler than this. Swap faces in the shelter, the audience's attention can be concentrated in the body, movement, and they get to wear clothes. In our anniversary show, we intend to repeat itself this approach. For us, this concept is still so exciting.

B: Maybe over the years everything painted white, but also the more you want to trigger a desire to stealth. Fashion for your house white sleeveless uniforms are to convey a hidden intent beyond any attention.

M: That is an interpretation. When you set the following in a certain direction, it is necessary to go into 100%. We have just started in 1988 when all the surrounding black and gray, white can not see it. We want to find our more unique things. In addition, we can not afford to buy fancy furniture. Since no money, you have more creative, so we all find the furniture has been white, 20 years later we are still doing so.

B: one started in your sign is blank rectangle - so far women's main line you still follow the signs. Are you in a way be regarded as a symbol of anti-market? After you rename it with figures of different fashion line. How do you pick a figure?

M: ah, this is our logic an extension. I feel that the supplier we were crazy, and some even refused to do so! Sign means that the qualifications of the brand, other brands will be as all. We want to strike a balance this phenomenon. Talking about the choice of figures, they are random, but between women and men will have a certain logic.

Antwerp and Paris

B: in the creation of its own brand, you have work in the Jean Paul Gaultier. Have been argued that it was his reputation prompted you decide to maintain their own identity, privacy. Is this true? How do you look at Gaultier worked with that time?

M: Yes. Martin learned a setting where the back is happening - the background of the truth, should not shine the spotlight where the operation of the whole industry. The most important point is that you want to achieve our goals, you have to work hard.

B: You currently work in Paris. Here the traditional uniform of the senior set is an integral part of culture, people respect the opponent process it may be anywhere in the world. Which you are encouraged by it?

M: Of course. We often tailor Room from the rules and common sense in looking for reference. In addition, we also have their own headquarters in the traditional workplace. Compared to high-level customized to the atmosphere, or what we value traditional arts and crafts.

B: I heard often will give you inspiration - this refers not to go to India to find a color that way. You were born and raised in Belgium, the extent to which this affected your design?

M: 1 did not affect the start. There is no doubt that those who, like Martin, like displaced people are looking for things not in his home town. But 20 years have passed, if you go to art museums in Antwerp MOMU good to explore them, step back, in a relatively large field of vision in looking at our results, you will aware of our views does not belong to France. Does this mean that it belongs to Belgium then?

B: Since you started to now, do you think fashion industry has changed? Have you followed the location change?

M: has not changed, but have been developed. In the beginning we all seem so difficult, especially when compared with the 1970s - at that time to change everyone full of passion. But now things only become more difficult, the future, they will become. In the late 1980s, it was something more innocent, though somewhat risky, but we are still willing to believe. Today, no longer enough to simply believe. You must combine all the parameters - quality, delivery, media ... ... In any case, in all of these growing difficulties, the new talent and innovative ideas are continually emerging, and this is the inspiring. In addition, the Internet has changed everything.

Yesterday and Now

B: "The New York Times" recently claimed that the reason why there are so many designers at random with reference to your design, because in the promotion, you choose a low profile in order to appear. Do you really think? Plagiarism really is a most sincere compliment?

M: is not yes.

B: For fashion lovers, the short memories may be a good thing. What do you think?

M: do not know. What do you think?

B: in a lot of sense, you are concerned about the first "practical" men's closet of the concept of contemporary designers. This is your very much want to do it? Or should I say these are like wearing your own clothes?

M: are.

B: What kind like your own clothes? What is the best men's?

M: jeans and T shirt.

B: Maison Martin Margiela often think it is a solemn place. However, we think that it is not the case. Your clothing is often very humorous. What will make you laugh?

M: Ironically, the story.

B: the world is currently awash with "teach you how to wear" television programs and publications, and even "Do not teach you to wear" television programs and publications. How do you think?

M: We think there are far more important than this thing.

B: You have often been labeled "conceptualization" label, today, which also may contain a negative connotation. How do you balance the concept and practice?

M: That is why we have more than one reason for the brand line. Not only we use to express their creativity in different ways and for different groups of people is our way of expression. Some people may feel only one kind, while others like all of the line.

B: you are creative and clothing itself has done a re-creation - painted jeans, long trench coat, leather jacket ... ... for you, a repetition and innovation which is more important?

M: Why should we choose? This is not necessarily run counter to both. It could be a repeat of innovation may also be a repeat of innovation.

B: Compared to vocational models, you always prefer to cooperate with the ordinary people. In a person you love most is the point?

M: We are not opposed to vocational models, but by ordinary people to touch more. Ordinary people who kind of minor blemishes and a sense of vulnerability is our main reason for their selection.

Martin Margiela its people

B: Let us take the "Guess who he is" way to ask the following questions: What is your hair color? Gold, red, brown or black?

M: white.

B: you bundle braid it?

M: Sometimes.

B: your eyeball it? Blue? Green? Gray?

M: silver.

B: Do you have a beard it?

M: I did not body hair.

B: You are smaller, of medium build or tall?

M: high-months.

B: Finally, we heard a little silver to become the "new white" trend. Can you tell us that this is not true?